For the last 2 days of my tour, we had 1100 kilometers to drive left to Johannesburg. We stayed the night at a rhino sanctuary where we did more driving - a game drive in the evening. In all I covered over 6000 kms on my tour excluding the game drives and I ended up with just 5 photos remaining on my memory card when all was said and done.
...and I used those in Joburg for the sunset. Yes, it's kinda my thing, this obsession with sunsets. But man are they beautiful, much more so in Africa. It seemed fitting too that the one on my last night was equally spectacular.
So yes, I'm back in Toronto now safe and sound (wait, uh, no boss, I'm not back until 7am next monday, right before I start work again). It is raining but I'm working away on photos anyway (over 2000!!). I've posted a whole new set now on picasa in 2 different albums (one for the volunteering and our for the tour) - http://picasaweb.google.ca/pnoman3.
But despite the weather it is nice to be back (well, for now. Give me a couple more days). It is nice to have regular showers and know they'll be hot, to have electricity, drinkable tap water, mirrors (well, sort of), a computer, internet, and possibly best of all, a soft bed. Of course I miss the sky, the weather, the unbeatable scenery, the money I used to have before I went, the continuous adventure that every day presents, and, ok, I guess the people I met too.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Okavango Delta
From Livingstone my tour group split up. Half went on to Cape Town (via Namibia), half went to Joburg via Kruger, and a couple ended their tours there. I was heading for Joburg but I was on a different, and much smaller tour, because I had made a point of including the Okavango Delta in my itenerary. And I must say I made the right decision. The delta was stunning.
Botswana is extremely flat and the water coming down from the mountains to the north hits the flat land and creates the world's only inland delta. The rains take 6 months to get there, so they had not arrived yet, and correspondingly the wildlife was not as abundant as it would be come September. Nevertheless, it was so relaxing and beautiful. We got paddled into a campsite on flat-bottom canoes, through the reeds, an experience I will not soon forget. In fact, I do believe it was my favourite of the tour (although so different from Livingstone it is hard to compare).
Botswana is extremely flat and the water coming down from the mountains to the north hits the flat land and creates the world's only inland delta. The rains take 6 months to get there, so they had not arrived yet, and correspondingly the wildlife was not as abundant as it would be come September. Nevertheless, it was so relaxing and beautiful. We got paddled into a campsite on flat-bottom canoes, through the reeds, an experience I will not soon forget. In fact, I do believe it was my favourite of the tour (although so different from Livingstone it is hard to compare).
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Livingstone - Day 3
For my last day in Livingstone, I had to find something to top bungee jumping and a micro-light flight. So what could be better than 3 different activities in 1. We started with a flying fox or high wire, which is a tention wire strung across the gorge. You take a running start and launch yourself headfirst off the edge, and fly superman style over to the other side (or close to it). Surprisingly it was actually fun dangling 100 meters up in the air.
Next we went abseiling (rappelling) down a sheer cliff face. It was really fun bouncing out from the rocks and sliding down the rope but it got even better when we did it facing forwards i.e. looking straight down.
The third activity was a gorge swing. It's like a giant playground swing except you jump from the top of the trajectory and freefall for 3.5 second (53 meters, twice as far as the bungee freefall) until the rope goes tight and swings you out. I did it tandem twice, where you face backwards and lean back together, with the extra weight making you fall faster and swing farther. Then I did it facing forwards where I had to step off just like the bungee jump. Because of the extra free fall (and perhaps because I was slightly less scared when I did it) it was more exhilarating than the bungee.
And you'll all be glad to know my days in Livingstone are now at an end so I won't be jumping off any more cliffs, bridges, or other high platforms (sky diving will have to wait).
Next we went abseiling (rappelling) down a sheer cliff face. It was really fun bouncing out from the rocks and sliding down the rope but it got even better when we did it facing forwards i.e. looking straight down.
The third activity was a gorge swing. It's like a giant playground swing except you jump from the top of the trajectory and freefall for 3.5 second (53 meters, twice as far as the bungee freefall) until the rope goes tight and swings you out. I did it tandem twice, where you face backwards and lean back together, with the extra weight making you fall faster and swing farther. Then I did it facing forwards where I had to step off just like the bungee jump. Because of the extra free fall (and perhaps because I was slightly less scared when I did it) it was more exhilarating than the bungee.
And you'll all be glad to know my days in Livingstone are now at an end so I won't be jumping off any more cliffs, bridges, or other high platforms (sky diving will have to wait).
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Livingstone - Day 2
So for anyone who doesn't believe how much spray their really is, I got a look at the falls today...
Flying in a Micro-light...over Victoria Falls...check!
It was actually kind of scary, at least I thought so. You have a small car seat belt holding you in and as you can see, really nothing else. The wind buffets around such a small craft so much and to balance against the pilot moves the wings. So the carriage you are sitting in beneath the wings swings the opposite way and you find yourself suddenly thrown sideways and hanging out over nothing. That said, it was an awesome experience!
Other pictures from the game drives in Kenya and Tanzania were posted yesterday.
Flying in a Micro-light...over Victoria Falls...check!
It was actually kind of scary, at least I thought so. You have a small car seat belt holding you in and as you can see, really nothing else. The wind buffets around such a small craft so much and to balance against the pilot moves the wings. So the carriage you are sitting in beneath the wings swings the opposite way and you find yourself suddenly thrown sideways and hanging out over nothing. That said, it was an awesome experience!
Other pictures from the game drives in Kenya and Tanzania were posted yesterday.
Monday, April 6, 2009
Look Ma, No Brains
Bungee Jumping at Victoria Falls...check!So obviously from this I'm at Victoria Falls. They are so full right now that you can't actually see them because the spray the send up completely blocks your view. But you do get nice and wet.
The bungee jumping was so scary up until I put my toes over the edge, then I just stood up, they counted down from five and I jumped out. I don't even remember the first few seconds other than thinking "OK, this isn't so bad. I can enjoy this." As the bungee stretched and started slowing me it was really cool. After the first couple of bounces I stopped flipping upright when the bungee shot me back up (which was fun) so I found that the blood was rushing to my head and it wasn't as good. Finally, after they hauled me back up I had to wait for the next jumpers before I could get off the bridge and I was on a metal grid platform about 2 feet wide - plenty of space except when you can see through it back down the 111 meters and you're afraid of heights. Yes, I jumped off a bridge when I'm too scared to even stand up straight on it.
As the saying goes, "Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most."
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Into Zambia
Malawi turned out to be very wet. It was the tail end of the rainy season and it was sunny only for our first day there. That night and for the past 3 it has rained heavily. We did manage to upgrade out of our tents for 1 night which allowed us to get clean and dry.
Yesterday we left Malawi and although it did rain it was much lighter and our tents manage to dry out as well. Since Malawi was so wet we didn't really do anything (hence there isn't a whole lot to write about). That said, we were camped at the lake side and it was quite beautiful and of course the whole country was really green from all the rain.
The excitement for me is building now as we get closer to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. I have big plans but I'll wait to see what happens. It is the end of the rainy season here too which means the falls will be in full flood but I'm missing the sunshine of Kenya.
Yesterday we left Malawi and although it did rain it was much lighter and our tents manage to dry out as well. Since Malawi was so wet we didn't really do anything (hence there isn't a whole lot to write about). That said, we were camped at the lake side and it was quite beautiful and of course the whole country was really green from all the rain.
The excitement for me is building now as we get closer to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. I have big plans but I'll wait to see what happens. It is the end of the rainy season here too which means the falls will be in full flood but I'm missing the sunshine of Kenya.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Malawi
I've now been in Malawi for a little over 24 hours. It poured last night, the first major rain all trip (I've had minor downpours before but never for long). Foretunately today is really sunny but not too hot.
Malawi is really green and lush and surprisingly hilly for such a small country that is dominated by such a big lake. It is even noticably greener than Tanzania, which itself seemed very green compared to Kenya. Then again, Kenya was at the end (hopefully) of a long drought when I was there while to the south in Africa there have been having heavy rainy seasons. The Zambezi is apparently quite full, which will make my view of the falls next week all the more spectacular.
But for now, it is nice to swim, dry out, and actually get on the internet for a few minutes. My opportunities to do so have been very limited as we drive such vast distances across such remote areas.
Malawi is really green and lush and surprisingly hilly for such a small country that is dominated by such a big lake. It is even noticably greener than Tanzania, which itself seemed very green compared to Kenya. Then again, Kenya was at the end (hopefully) of a long drought when I was there while to the south in Africa there have been having heavy rainy seasons. The Zambezi is apparently quite full, which will make my view of the falls next week all the more spectacular.
But for now, it is nice to swim, dry out, and actually get on the internet for a few minutes. My opportunities to do so have been very limited as we drive such vast distances across such remote areas.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Zanzibar
Well this place really sucks. I've spent 2 days lying on the beach, swimming in warm water, playing beach volleyball, reading, relaxing, getting a massage, partying... Yeah. It's a horrible life.
Actually, it is really really hot here. I have to avoid the sun because I'll be a lobster colour in about 15 minutes, even with sun screen on, as the sun is so scortching. I took a quick dip at midnight last night because I was so hot. It was glorious under the stars with the phosphoresence. The water is quite salty but very refreshing and a beautiful azure colour against the white sand. It is cheap by Western standards but quite expensive when you add it all up, and it is only off season here.
I have more pictures but due to the slow speed of uploading, limited local currency to pay for internet time, and more pressing things to do (see above), I won't be uploading any more for now. Sorry. I will try to post more soon.
Actually, it is really really hot here. I have to avoid the sun because I'll be a lobster colour in about 15 minutes, even with sun screen on, as the sun is so scortching. I took a quick dip at midnight last night because I was so hot. It was glorious under the stars with the phosphoresence. The water is quite salty but very refreshing and a beautiful azure colour against the white sand. It is cheap by Western standards but quite expensive when you add it all up, and it is only off season here.
I have more pictures but due to the slow speed of uploading, limited local currency to pay for internet time, and more pressing things to do (see above), I won't be uploading any more for now. Sorry. I will try to post more soon.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Safari
Finally a chance to blog for a just minute...
It has been a week now that I've been on my safari. I spent 3 days driving through the Massai Mara, a national park in Kenya that adjoins to the Serengeti in Tanzania. From there we travelled back to Nairobi for a night before heading down to Arusha in Tanzania and then on to the Serengeti for another 3 days. It seems like a long way around but there aren't really other roads, they would be so rough if there were, and the serengeti is so massive that it would take longer to drive directly through.
We saw all of the following up close: Lion (male and female), baboons, monkeys, eland, elephant (my personal favourite), a leopard (actually not that close, but still cool), girafe, zebra, emu, flamingo (ok, not that close either), hyena, black rhino (i.e. all of the so called |"big 5"), jackal, vultures, cranes, numerous other birds and of course, millions of wildebeast.
I also sold my first born to take a hot air balloon over the serengeti. It was stunning and so endless. We saw some amazing things from up there, but unfortunately while the 4 of us who did it were up in the balloon the others did a game drive and saw lions mating and hyenas devouring a kill. Either way, I would rather have been at my desk working...
We've now arrived in Dar Es Salaam after 2 long hot days of driving. We head straight over to Zanzibar in the morning for the next 3 nights. I'll be visiting stone town where the spice markets are, then heading to the beach to make sure my tan will not wash off in my first shower when I get home.
It has been a week now that I've been on my safari. I spent 3 days driving through the Massai Mara, a national park in Kenya that adjoins to the Serengeti in Tanzania. From there we travelled back to Nairobi for a night before heading down to Arusha in Tanzania and then on to the Serengeti for another 3 days. It seems like a long way around but there aren't really other roads, they would be so rough if there were, and the serengeti is so massive that it would take longer to drive directly through.
We saw all of the following up close: Lion (male and female), baboons, monkeys, eland, elephant (my personal favourite), a leopard (actually not that close, but still cool), girafe, zebra, emu, flamingo (ok, not that close either), hyena, black rhino (i.e. all of the so called |"big 5"), jackal, vultures, cranes, numerous other birds and of course, millions of wildebeast.
I also sold my first born to take a hot air balloon over the serengeti. It was stunning and so endless. We saw some amazing things from up there, but unfortunately while the 4 of us who did it were up in the balloon the others did a game drive and saw lions mating and hyenas devouring a kill. Either way, I would rather have been at my desk working...
We've now arrived in Dar Es Salaam after 2 long hot days of driving. We head straight over to Zanzibar in the morning for the next 3 nights. I'll be visiting stone town where the spice markets are, then heading to the beach to make sure my tan will not wash off in my first shower when I get home.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Knock On Wood
I'm pleased to report I have not had any medical issues of any kind short of a tickle at the back of my throat this past week which has not developed into a cold.
The food has been...basic. Breakfast is usually white bread with jam. Lunch varies from nothing to rice and sukuma wiki (kale) to beans to a feast of chicken, sukuma wiki, ugali (maize flour and water - incredibly bland!), and Fanta. Dinner is chapiti (half-way between a tortilla and naan), mashed potato, or rice and one of spagetti, crazy rice (rice with potatoes and spice), beef, or lentils, plus either cabbage or sukuma wiki. It is hardly balanced and can be very carbohydrate heavy but it does the job.
The food has been...basic. Breakfast is usually white bread with jam. Lunch varies from nothing to rice and sukuma wiki (kale) to beans to a feast of chicken, sukuma wiki, ugali (maize flour and water - incredibly bland!), and Fanta. Dinner is chapiti (half-way between a tortilla and naan), mashed potato, or rice and one of spagetti, crazy rice (rice with potatoes and spice), beef, or lentils, plus either cabbage or sukuma wiki. It is hardly balanced and can be very carbohydrate heavy but it does the job.
Happy Ending
After a slow couple of weeks I was glad to end my volunteer experience on a high. I spent the morning discussing improvements to the program with the program manager. After lunch, we stopped by a group we had been visiting yesterday for a loan repayment. They are a women's singing group and they were having a practice this afternoon. They welcomed our arrival with a song and dance and then serenaded us and even sung songs using our names. It was inspiring, heart-warming and joyous.
We then headed directly into town for a last crack at the internet (and eventually for dinner). As we were passing by the salon across the road, they called me and asked me to come up. They then proceeded to clean my hands, feet and shoes again free of charge.
So anyone who finds themselves in Bungoma, Kenya should definitely go to the Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor! Their great service and quality cuts will leave you smiling every time. Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor. Get clean without showering.
We then headed directly into town for a last crack at the internet (and eventually for dinner). As we were passing by the salon across the road, they called me and asked me to come up. They then proceeded to clean my hands, feet and shoes again free of charge.
So anyone who finds themselves in Bungoma, Kenya should definitely go to the Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor! Their great service and quality cuts will leave you smiling every time. Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor. Get clean without showering.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
The Rainforest
The rainforest itself was a collection of beautiful trees, butterflies, birds, and monkies. My camera died part way through our hike on Saturday but thankfully I had my charge and adapter with me and managed to beg them to let me use the stored up solar power to recharge it in the evening enough to last for the morning hike.
In the morning we did a sunrise hike that got us up on a hill overlooking the rainforest. It was a beautiful panorama and a stunning sunrise. I was so glad to be able to capture it on film, even though it doesn't truly compare.
I've posted a few more of the best pics of the last 6 weeks.
In the morning we did a sunrise hike that got us up on a hill overlooking the rainforest. It was a beautiful panorama and a stunning sunrise. I was so glad to be able to capture it on film, even though it doesn't truly compare.
I've posted a few more of the best pics of the last 6 weeks.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Last Weekend at ICODEI
This was my last weekend at ICODEI where I have now spent almost 6 weeks. On this coming Saturday I leave for Nairobi where I begin my safari.
On Saturday we said goodbye to 3 of the volunteers, and the remaining 4 of us went down Kakamanga rain forest for some hiking. We had quite an adventure getting there. First we accidentally hitch-hiked for a while when Emily stuck her thumb out as a joke and the guy stopped. He turned out to be a nice pastor with an even nicer car, which sure beat bumping around in the back of a matatu.
We then got a matatu from where he dropped us and I scored a front seat, which is by far the best place to be...if you have the courage to watch the road ahead. That got us in to town, at which point our driver offered to take us to our destination (for a price of course) instead of us having to take piki-piki (motor bikes), which we jumped at. Unfortunately, although he knew of the rain forest, apparently there are 2 entrances to the park. So after 30 minutes down bumpy dirt roads, we found ourselves at the wrong spot and in a bit of a disagreement with our driver about how much we should pay to get to the right spot. Fortunately, like most people, he soon became philosophical about it - hakuna matata - and agreed to take us to the right spot even if he took a loss because he wanted us to be happy.
I also had an entertaining conversation with him about gay marriage; like most Kenyans he disagrees with it (homosexuality is illegal here) but he was surprisingly open-minded to what I said. (Uh, no, I'm not gay but that doesn't mean I think others should be deprived of basic human rights.)
That didn't stop him from offering to buy one of my "sisters" (the other volunteers) as a second wife. Polygamy is common here, as is paying a dowery (a dozen or so cows) to the parents of the bride. They don't seem to understand that mazungus aren't really interested in being second or third wives. And what's more their perfectly blunt about asking. It is usually about the third thing they say. 1) "Hi. How are you?" 2) "Assist me with money." 3) "How much for your 'sister'?" We normally just ask for so much everyone laughs it off but every once in a while someone says he agrees, like with our matatu driver, at which point you have to explain that it isn't possible...or just go along with it since they likely could never come up with that much anyway.
...I could though. A few Kenyan wives wouldn't be too bad either. I'm going to rename them though. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday...
On Saturday we said goodbye to 3 of the volunteers, and the remaining 4 of us went down Kakamanga rain forest for some hiking. We had quite an adventure getting there. First we accidentally hitch-hiked for a while when Emily stuck her thumb out as a joke and the guy stopped. He turned out to be a nice pastor with an even nicer car, which sure beat bumping around in the back of a matatu.
We then got a matatu from where he dropped us and I scored a front seat, which is by far the best place to be...if you have the courage to watch the road ahead. That got us in to town, at which point our driver offered to take us to our destination (for a price of course) instead of us having to take piki-piki (motor bikes), which we jumped at. Unfortunately, although he knew of the rain forest, apparently there are 2 entrances to the park. So after 30 minutes down bumpy dirt roads, we found ourselves at the wrong spot and in a bit of a disagreement with our driver about how much we should pay to get to the right spot. Fortunately, like most people, he soon became philosophical about it - hakuna matata - and agreed to take us to the right spot even if he took a loss because he wanted us to be happy.
I also had an entertaining conversation with him about gay marriage; like most Kenyans he disagrees with it (homosexuality is illegal here) but he was surprisingly open-minded to what I said. (Uh, no, I'm not gay but that doesn't mean I think others should be deprived of basic human rights.)
That didn't stop him from offering to buy one of my "sisters" (the other volunteers) as a second wife. Polygamy is common here, as is paying a dowery (a dozen or so cows) to the parents of the bride. They don't seem to understand that mazungus aren't really interested in being second or third wives. And what's more their perfectly blunt about asking. It is usually about the third thing they say. 1) "Hi. How are you?" 2) "Assist me with money." 3) "How much for your 'sister'?" We normally just ask for so much everyone laughs it off but every once in a while someone says he agrees, like with our matatu driver, at which point you have to explain that it isn't possible...or just go along with it since they likely could never come up with that much anyway.
...I could though. A few Kenyan wives wouldn't be too bad either. I'm going to rename them though. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday...
Weather
A slight correction: it has actually been hotter in Bungoma. 28 was for Nairobi but I'm pretty sure it has been getting close to 35 in this area. And very few people have fridges or fans (i.e. cold drinks are only available at some stores and fans only in the nicest of restaurants). Air conditioning is unheard of.
The rains are overdue and the current drought is causing significant problems here in Kenya. For me it is nice, especially as we can still get around the dirt roads and don't get bogged down in mud and have to push the car out (though we still have to push the car to get it started - this is Africa after all).
The rains are overdue and the current drought is causing significant problems here in Kenya. For me it is nice, especially as we can still get around the dirt roads and don't get bogged down in mud and have to push the car out (though we still have to push the car to get it started - this is Africa after all).
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Gee. That sucks.
So I was just informed that the weather in Toronto has been -10 or worse for over a week. I just thought I'd let everyone know the weather here has been around 28 every day. I've seen some clouds and even lightening...in the distance...probably over Lake Victoria...
The Haircut
The other thing I forgot to mention that happened last week is that I went to get a haircut, a big risk here as they don't really know how to cut Mazungu hair. (It was after this that I was at an HIV seminar given by one of the other volunteers where they said you can get HIV at the barber if they don't clean the blades properly and they cut you).
I asked someone on the farm who is around volunteers and might know and he sent me to a place that was apparently new. They charged me 500 KSh, which is less than $10 (but which is a lot here). So not worrying about the money and needing a haircut I agreed and sat in the chair offered.
First they took off my shoes (sport sandals) which I thought a bit odd, but what the heck, I don't know the local custom. Maybe they just do that to make you comfortable. Of all the things to steal, my shoes would probably have been the last thing they could have sold for money given the colour of my feet. Then the guy washed my face and hair with a warm cloth and I thought "OK, they'll shave me too. No problem. I've had that before. I shaved this morning but so what." But they didn't in the end (Judging by the colour of the face cloth when they finished, I think they were probably just cleaning the filthy Mazungu). Then he started cutting my hair and though I was a bit worried I've had some bad cuts in my time and it grows in a week so I tried my best to smile (since talking was limited by the barber's very limited English). That is about the last part of the "haircut" that resembled what I'm used to.
After a while, someone else came in with warm water and started washing my hands. She washed right up to my elbows and then started cleaning under my fingernails (which were more black than white) and filing my nails. Meanwhile another guy started cleaning my other arm and hand.
I began to feel bad for them all when they had to get more clean water because I was so dirty. That was the point at which they moved on to my feet and began washing all the way up to my knees and under my toenails. Not bad I thought. A manicure and a pedicure thrown in with the haircut. I could get used to this.
So then they asked me to get up and go to the sink where they washed my freshly cut hair. No problem. They'd given me nice comfy sandals to wear while I was there. On the way I discovered what happened to my shoes. Someone else was cleaning them. They were cleaning my shoes!! Not just rinsing them. Scrubbing the red African soil out of every crevass. Once they'd finished I wanted to stay there not only because it was so great but also because my shoes were never going to be this clean again!
But they weren't done yet. After the hair wash, I returned to the chair, which they reclined way back and proceeded to give me a short head and shoulder massage. They then took a hair dryer, or at least I thought so, until they blew it on my face and I realised it was warm but also humidified air. So they exfoliated my face and I just lay there and enjoyed the pampering.
They returned my shoes in pristine condition and I gladly handed over my money plus a handsome tip, for although tipping is not common here at all I felt not only did they deserve it but they'd been through a fairly unpleasant experience. And it still came to less than $10. I think I'll start going weekly!
And the haircut was pretty good too.
I asked someone on the farm who is around volunteers and might know and he sent me to a place that was apparently new. They charged me 500 KSh, which is less than $10 (but which is a lot here). So not worrying about the money and needing a haircut I agreed and sat in the chair offered.
First they took off my shoes (sport sandals) which I thought a bit odd, but what the heck, I don't know the local custom. Maybe they just do that to make you comfortable. Of all the things to steal, my shoes would probably have been the last thing they could have sold for money given the colour of my feet. Then the guy washed my face and hair with a warm cloth and I thought "OK, they'll shave me too. No problem. I've had that before. I shaved this morning but so what." But they didn't in the end (Judging by the colour of the face cloth when they finished, I think they were probably just cleaning the filthy Mazungu). Then he started cutting my hair and though I was a bit worried I've had some bad cuts in my time and it grows in a week so I tried my best to smile (since talking was limited by the barber's very limited English). That is about the last part of the "haircut" that resembled what I'm used to.
After a while, someone else came in with warm water and started washing my hands. She washed right up to my elbows and then started cleaning under my fingernails (which were more black than white) and filing my nails. Meanwhile another guy started cleaning my other arm and hand.
I began to feel bad for them all when they had to get more clean water because I was so dirty. That was the point at which they moved on to my feet and began washing all the way up to my knees and under my toenails. Not bad I thought. A manicure and a pedicure thrown in with the haircut. I could get used to this.
So then they asked me to get up and go to the sink where they washed my freshly cut hair. No problem. They'd given me nice comfy sandals to wear while I was there. On the way I discovered what happened to my shoes. Someone else was cleaning them. They were cleaning my shoes!! Not just rinsing them. Scrubbing the red African soil out of every crevass. Once they'd finished I wanted to stay there not only because it was so great but also because my shoes were never going to be this clean again!
But they weren't done yet. After the hair wash, I returned to the chair, which they reclined way back and proceeded to give me a short head and shoulder massage. They then took a hair dryer, or at least I thought so, until they blew it on my face and I realised it was warm but also humidified air. So they exfoliated my face and I just lay there and enjoyed the pampering.
They returned my shoes in pristine condition and I gladly handed over my money plus a handsome tip, for although tipping is not common here at all I felt not only did they deserve it but they'd been through a fairly unpleasant experience. And it still came to less than $10. I think I'll start going weekly!
And the haircut was pretty good too.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
A Weekend Off
So this past weekend was my one weekend hanging around the farm during my stay at ICODEI. We used the opportunity to visit the home of one of the staff members who gave us a wonderful lunch. Her husband works for about the only big business in the area, Mumias Sugar, as a manager in their factory so they had a very nice home compared to most people. They even had power and a TV so we watched The Gods Must Be Crazy, which is a great and entertaining film on its own (If you haven't seen it, go watch it!) but has a whole new level of amusement now that were are living it. Our vehicles are in even worse shape than the one in that movie and we spend a significant amount of time, especially recently, pushing them to get them started or occasionally unstuck from ditches or potholes.
The night before we'd been out and of course I don't drink at all but everyone else was feeling pretty rough. The funny part though was the bar had played a couple of Shania songs, which we took as an opportunity to tease one Emily (the other MDP volunteer) who insists that Canada has the worst contributions to musical culture. After our movie, our host then put on a DVD of...yup, Celine Dion videos. This was pushing it even for me but one of the other Canadians even knew the words and of course we couldn't waste the opportunity to further harass Emily.
In the evening we came back and had a bonfire at the farm, complete with a bastardized version of Smores (a Canadian campfile classic of chocolate and marshmallow melted between Graham crackers). Since we couldn't get marshmallows or Graham crackers, we had chocolate on gingersnaps. (You do what you can.)
Now although ICODEI is a non-secular organization, the director is an Episcopalian minister. He has about 21 churches that he visits on a rotational basis and Sunday he just happened to be preaching at the one near us. So we all got dressed up and did our best to partake (given our range of beliefs). They did what they could to preach a bit in English so we could understand. It was even interesting, particularly when politics entered into the sermon. (The Agriculture minister got caught in a big scam that bled more than 7 Billion KSh (over $100M CAD) from the public funds - and who kept his job because they made a deal with the opposition who had also had a minister caught in a scam.) The coolest part was the singing though, complete with 2 drums (played very well by a couple of guys in the congregation) and two old ladies ululating. The kids even danced in a out through the center of the church a couple of times and then did 2 special songs at the end, something they'd been learning as part of Sunday School.
The night before we'd been out and of course I don't drink at all but everyone else was feeling pretty rough. The funny part though was the bar had played a couple of Shania songs, which we took as an opportunity to tease one Emily (the other MDP volunteer) who insists that Canada has the worst contributions to musical culture. After our movie, our host then put on a DVD of...yup, Celine Dion videos. This was pushing it even for me but one of the other Canadians even knew the words and of course we couldn't waste the opportunity to further harass Emily.
In the evening we came back and had a bonfire at the farm, complete with a bastardized version of Smores (a Canadian campfile classic of chocolate and marshmallow melted between Graham crackers). Since we couldn't get marshmallows or Graham crackers, we had chocolate on gingersnaps. (You do what you can.)
Now although ICODEI is a non-secular organization, the director is an Episcopalian minister. He has about 21 churches that he visits on a rotational basis and Sunday he just happened to be preaching at the one near us. So we all got dressed up and did our best to partake (given our range of beliefs). They did what they could to preach a bit in English so we could understand. It was even interesting, particularly when politics entered into the sermon. (The Agriculture minister got caught in a big scam that bled more than 7 Billion KSh (over $100M CAD) from the public funds - and who kept his job because they made a deal with the opposition who had also had a minister caught in a scam.) The coolest part was the singing though, complete with 2 drums (played very well by a couple of guys in the congregation) and two old ladies ululating. The kids even danced in a out through the center of the church a couple of times and then did 2 special songs at the end, something they'd been learning as part of Sunday School.
River Rafting on the Nile - Check
I'm a little behind as I haven't had a lot of access to the Internet lately. The weekend before last we went to Jinja in Uganda to do some river rafting. It was expensive and painful but very worth it.
We left at a reasonable hour and took a very comfortable matatu to Malaba, on the border of Kenya and Uganda. We crossed the border on foot and I found it to be everything that Hollywood might make out a border crossing in the third world to be. We crossed a bridge and although there wasn't much security you got the feeling that there was much more that you couldn't see, and it was in a depression that seemed to magnify the heat of the day.
Uganda was immediately different; the people looked different; we couldn't tell if they spoke the same language (which they do and they don't); and the currency was worth way less but the prices were much higher. The matatus were the same but somehow different. We all agreed that they were much less pleasant but we couldn't say why because they were just as full, dirty, hot, sweaty, stinky, and uncomfortable. I guess it came down to driving. The roads were in better condition but the drivers were not. We passed a couple of bodies that had been knocked from Piki-Pikis and we even got hit (very lightly). We were all stopped for road works and our driver tried to budge ahead and then merge. Apparently the guy behind wasn't happy and decided not to stop (or was too busy blocking everyone else). The weirdest thing was our driver ended up having to pay the other guy, even though he was in front and he had the damage to his car (just a crumpled tail-light).
Anyway, we did arrive safely though the Piki-Piki ride to the hostel was pretty scary (and fun) too. They had a bar that had about the best view possible, right up on the banks of the Nile.
The rafting itself was fun and only once was it scary for me (on the first time we flipped when I couldn't get enough breath between rapids). Although one of the others in particular was a little more scared, we all had a blast. They flipped us a lot but we wanted that - the water was beautiful and that was half the fun.
The other raft that went out that day was full of American army guys who got flipped at the worst part early on and didn't end up enjoying it much at all. A couple of them were scared to death and even claimed they'd rather be back in Afghanistan or Iraq than out there again.
The worst part about it was that although I slathered on the sun cream, I got very burned, at least on my legs where I hadn't already built up a tan. The cream washed off and after 6 hours in the sun (it rained lightly briefly but was mostly clear) I couldn't stand without pain. It went away in a day or two thankfully.
We left at a reasonable hour and took a very comfortable matatu to Malaba, on the border of Kenya and Uganda. We crossed the border on foot and I found it to be everything that Hollywood might make out a border crossing in the third world to be. We crossed a bridge and although there wasn't much security you got the feeling that there was much more that you couldn't see, and it was in a depression that seemed to magnify the heat of the day.
Uganda was immediately different; the people looked different; we couldn't tell if they spoke the same language (which they do and they don't); and the currency was worth way less but the prices were much higher. The matatus were the same but somehow different. We all agreed that they were much less pleasant but we couldn't say why because they were just as full, dirty, hot, sweaty, stinky, and uncomfortable. I guess it came down to driving. The roads were in better condition but the drivers were not. We passed a couple of bodies that had been knocked from Piki-Pikis and we even got hit (very lightly). We were all stopped for road works and our driver tried to budge ahead and then merge. Apparently the guy behind wasn't happy and decided not to stop (or was too busy blocking everyone else). The weirdest thing was our driver ended up having to pay the other guy, even though he was in front and he had the damage to his car (just a crumpled tail-light).
Anyway, we did arrive safely though the Piki-Piki ride to the hostel was pretty scary (and fun) too. They had a bar that had about the best view possible, right up on the banks of the Nile.
The rafting itself was fun and only once was it scary for me (on the first time we flipped when I couldn't get enough breath between rapids). Although one of the others in particular was a little more scared, we all had a blast. They flipped us a lot but we wanted that - the water was beautiful and that was half the fun.
The other raft that went out that day was full of American army guys who got flipped at the worst part early on and didn't end up enjoying it much at all. A couple of them were scared to death and even claimed they'd rather be back in Afghanistan or Iraq than out there again.
The worst part about it was that although I slathered on the sun cream, I got very burned, at least on my legs where I hadn't already built up a tan. The cream washed off and after 6 hours in the sun (it rained lightly briefly but was mostly clear) I couldn't stand without pain. It went away in a day or two thankfully.
Friday, February 27, 2009
How are you? I am fine. How are you? I am fine...
Everywhere the kids!!!
It seems that every seminar is near a school. That isn't really surprising since there are so many schools. In fact, some of the groups even run schools. And it never fails that the kids will ask "Hi. How are you?" and the only acceptable response is "I am fine. How are you?" The younger ones don't understand the response and the older ones do but are so amused by us that they simply keep asking "How are you?" anyway.
But I had a seminar on Monday that was pretty typical of the school kids in the more remote locations (i.e. even less familiar with white people if that is possible). After the seminar it was lunch hour for the kids so they were all outside and they gathered around the building in which I was teaching. Once everyone left I was cleaning up with my translator and they were just staring. The ones peering through the window ducked away when I looked towards them and the ones at the door were to scared to cross the threshold. So I pulled out my camera and got the guaranteed reaction: they swarmed into the room and posed for their picture (way to close to get them all in). Given these ones were so timid they actually lined up for the picture and then once I took it they bolted for the door again...until I turned my camera around to show them at which point they overcame their fear and tripped over each other to get closer and pull the camera to where they could see it. It never fails either. They all love it.
It seems that every seminar is near a school. That isn't really surprising since there are so many schools. In fact, some of the groups even run schools. And it never fails that the kids will ask "Hi. How are you?" and the only acceptable response is "I am fine. How are you?" The younger ones don't understand the response and the older ones do but are so amused by us that they simply keep asking "How are you?" anyway.
But I had a seminar on Monday that was pretty typical of the school kids in the more remote locations (i.e. even less familiar with white people if that is possible). After the seminar it was lunch hour for the kids so they were all outside and they gathered around the building in which I was teaching. Once everyone left I was cleaning up with my translator and they were just staring. The ones peering through the window ducked away when I looked towards them and the ones at the door were to scared to cross the threshold. So I pulled out my camera and got the guaranteed reaction: they swarmed into the room and posed for their picture (way to close to get them all in). Given these ones were so timid they actually lined up for the picture and then once I took it they bolted for the door again...until I turned my camera around to show them at which point they overcame their fear and tripped over each other to get closer and pull the camera to where they could see it. It never fails either. They all love it.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Good things happen in 4s!
I started off with a hot shower, something I haven't had much of recently.
Then they were out of bread for breakfast so they made 'drop scones' which are like pancakes in taste but are thicker like scones (and light and fluffier than pancakes). They were so good.
Then Emily found all her picutures she thought the driver had deleted the day before by accident (turns out to be some glitch with her memory card or camera), so the video of the group singing is salvaged.
After breakfast, we headed out for a seminar and the group was also running a school on the side. They ushered all the kids in to the room where we were waiting to teach and they sung us the sweetest song of welcome. The kids were so shy too, much more shy than usual; kids normally call out "Hello. How are you?" whenever they see us and get so excited when we take pictures and show them.
Running a school on the side is surprisingly normal here. Every group has an interest in giving back to the community. It is amazing, but it often detracts from their business, which is unfortunate from the point of view of investing but is truly inspiring, especially since it is so common. People here help each other so much, even if the people they help are in direct competition to them.
Then they were out of bread for breakfast so they made 'drop scones' which are like pancakes in taste but are thicker like scones (and light and fluffier than pancakes). They were so good.
Then Emily found all her picutures she thought the driver had deleted the day before by accident (turns out to be some glitch with her memory card or camera), so the video of the group singing is salvaged.
After breakfast, we headed out for a seminar and the group was also running a school on the side. They ushered all the kids in to the room where we were waiting to teach and they sung us the sweetest song of welcome. The kids were so shy too, much more shy than usual; kids normally call out "Hello. How are you?" whenever they see us and get so excited when we take pictures and show them.
Running a school on the side is surprisingly normal here. Every group has an interest in giving back to the community. It is amazing, but it often detracts from their business, which is unfortunate from the point of view of investing but is truly inspiring, especially since it is so common. People here help each other so much, even if the people they help are in direct competition to them.
My Typical Day
Get up, eat 2 slices of bread with jam and a malaria pill, wash hair (or even shower - warm if before 7, cold otherwise), purify water for the day, walk across the compound by 9am.
9-10 wait around for driver and other staff to get organized and take tea.
10-1 drive over very bumpy dirty roads through rural areas. Arrive at group location, usually someone's house, get shown project, wait 20 minutes for other group members to arrive, teach 2 1/2 hr business seminar.
1-5 eat lunch, often provided by the group receiving first seminar (consisting of chunks of beef in a soupy sauce, ugali (tasteless, heavy, flour and water loaf), and sukuma wiki (kale)), drive to second seminar, arrive at group location, get shown project and wait around again for other group members to arrive, teach seminar.
5-8 return to farm, relax, chat, wash, read, play soccer, do laundry by hand, or exercise (yoga, walk, jog).
8-8:30 eat dinner
9:00 go to bed.
9-10 wait around for driver and other staff to get organized and take tea.
10-1 drive over very bumpy dirty roads through rural areas. Arrive at group location, usually someone's house, get shown project, wait 20 minutes for other group members to arrive, teach 2 1/2 hr business seminar.
1-5 eat lunch, often provided by the group receiving first seminar (consisting of chunks of beef in a soupy sauce, ugali (tasteless, heavy, flour and water loaf), and sukuma wiki (kale)), drive to second seminar, arrive at group location, get shown project and wait around again for other group members to arrive, teach seminar.
5-8 return to farm, relax, chat, wash, read, play soccer, do laundry by hand, or exercise (yoga, walk, jog).
8-8:30 eat dinner
9:00 go to bed.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Monday Seminar
Yesterday I gave a seminar to a group who had a brick-making business, or at least they planned to. This group was pretty organized since they had a way to make bricks and they actually, amazingly, had already talked to people who would buy as many bricks as they could make. That there is a market is not unusual. That the group has actually identified it is rare. Brick-making is done by combining water and sand in molds and waiting for them to set, then burning them to seal/harden them. The group was worried that the rains would come and wash away all their work forming the bricks before they had a chance to seal them, so they wanted the capital to build a storage shed or to buy plastic sheets. It was pretty good because it gave us a specific topic and example to go through to show them about business planning and forecasting.
Normally though, our seminars start out with the basic concept of a business and move through basic bookkeeping, understanding profit, marketing, forecasting, and finally into loans and in particular writing a business plan to obtain financing (which is very simplistic by North American standards).
The coolest thing about yesterday's session though was afterwards the group sang us a song as a thank you. It was so cool. Emily, a newly arrived volunteer who was watching me got it on camera too. Today, she gave a seminar and one of the drivers borrowed her camera to take a picture and ended up deleting all the ones on her memory card. She lost it all including the song. What a bummer!!
The last two days have yielded spectacular sunsets. I have some great pictures but they take forever to upload from these slow internet cafes. One of the other volunteers saw one of my pictures and said exactly what I was thinking - "this is a paradise."
Then again, the generator is broken and we have had no power for 5 days and when I went to take a shower (cold), the well had run dry...
Normally though, our seminars start out with the basic concept of a business and move through basic bookkeeping, understanding profit, marketing, forecasting, and finally into loans and in particular writing a business plan to obtain financing (which is very simplistic by North American standards).
The coolest thing about yesterday's session though was afterwards the group sang us a song as a thank you. It was so cool. Emily, a newly arrived volunteer who was watching me got it on camera too. Today, she gave a seminar and one of the drivers borrowed her camera to take a picture and ended up deleting all the ones on her memory card. She lost it all including the song. What a bummer!!
The last two days have yielded spectacular sunsets. I have some great pictures but they take forever to upload from these slow internet cafes. One of the other volunteers saw one of my pictures and said exactly what I was thinking - "this is a paradise."
Then again, the generator is broken and we have had no power for 5 days and when I went to take a shower (cold), the well had run dry...
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Recent Questions
To answer a couple of the questions, the goat was roasted (basically cooked over an open flame). The beer is really good, but not quite as good as Creemore. It is comparible to Heiniken.
As for the loan program, the banks claim repayments of about 98%, which is probably fairly realistic. The beauty of the concept is that the borrowers for groups and get a group loan on which they are all co-borrowers/co-guarantors. If one or two members fail to pay their share then the others are required to. The loans are based on the ability of the businesses to pay if the business already exists, so they don't really have a problem there. They do also lend occassionally to start-ups but then the loans are small enough that the other group members would be able to repay the loan if other members fail at their businesses. Also, since they cannot get additional bigger loans unless they successfully pay back the first loan and build up a reputation (just like a credit rating), it is in their interest to make sure they pay back in full.
ICODEI has a much lower success rate due to two major reasons: 1) they lend more to groups that are start-ups and that often do not have the business accumen to be successful to the same degree (which is why so much of what I do is education); and 2) volunteers are here from 1-3 months typically so there is little consistency in the administration of loans. At certain times, there are no (or not enough) volunteers to follow up on loans so they can linger in delinquency for months before the issue is addressed. This is why we were visiting the banks this week, so that we can leave the lending to those with the proper resources and practices in place to manage their loans.
Interestingly though, as a whole, micro-finance is both a solution and a problem. We see in Kenya that it gives capital to those who otherwise would not have it and allows them to make businesses from which they can raise themselves out of extreme poverty. On the other hand, it also creates a million micro-businesses while there are no large scale operations. So the country as a whole is grossly inefficient because there are no benefits of economies of scale, which is particularly important where large investments are concerned. In a place where people are starving due to poor crop harvests during the current drought, being able to produce more with less is vital. They will still require massive investments and aid to reach the tipping point where they can become self-sustaining.
As for the loan program, the banks claim repayments of about 98%, which is probably fairly realistic. The beauty of the concept is that the borrowers for groups and get a group loan on which they are all co-borrowers/co-guarantors. If one or two members fail to pay their share then the others are required to. The loans are based on the ability of the businesses to pay if the business already exists, so they don't really have a problem there. They do also lend occassionally to start-ups but then the loans are small enough that the other group members would be able to repay the loan if other members fail at their businesses. Also, since they cannot get additional bigger loans unless they successfully pay back the first loan and build up a reputation (just like a credit rating), it is in their interest to make sure they pay back in full.
ICODEI has a much lower success rate due to two major reasons: 1) they lend more to groups that are start-ups and that often do not have the business accumen to be successful to the same degree (which is why so much of what I do is education); and 2) volunteers are here from 1-3 months typically so there is little consistency in the administration of loans. At certain times, there are no (or not enough) volunteers to follow up on loans so they can linger in delinquency for months before the issue is addressed. This is why we were visiting the banks this week, so that we can leave the lending to those with the proper resources and practices in place to manage their loans.
Interestingly though, as a whole, micro-finance is both a solution and a problem. We see in Kenya that it gives capital to those who otherwise would not have it and allows them to make businesses from which they can raise themselves out of extreme poverty. On the other hand, it also creates a million micro-businesses while there are no large scale operations. So the country as a whole is grossly inefficient because there are no benefits of economies of scale, which is particularly important where large investments are concerned. In a place where people are starving due to poor crop harvests during the current drought, being able to produce more with less is vital. They will still require massive investments and aid to reach the tipping point where they can become self-sustaining.
School kids
Thursday we went to visit 3 sites that had taken loans out with us in the past. The first had paid it back but wanted to see us again anyway...to ask for another loan of course. They wanted 50,000 KSh (just under $1000 CAD) to build a shed for covering their bricks that they make before they are fired so that they don't get ruined by rain. They didn't actually have anyone to sell bricks to, which doesn't seem to be a consideration here. Amazingly enough, since they paid back their first loan they obviously can sell their bricks eventually and they probably will get a second, though perhaps not as much as they want.
The second group was so fun though. They have a sewing business and masonary as well, but they run a school on the grounds. As we were pulling up on the "road" all the kids (about 100) were outside and saw the van coming so they started cheering. We pulled into the yard and they swarmed the car on the side I was on so that when I got out I was surrounded. It was exactly like being a rock star, as Dave likes to point out. There were so many I just held my hands out and they all reached up to touch me.
After the visit, the leader of the group pointed out his daughter who was attending the school and happened to be standing to one side. I pulled out my camera and took a picture of her and tried to show it to her. She became an instant celebrity herself as all the other kids saw the camera and jostled for a good look. I then took a picture of them all and showed them. The kids just love to pose and to see themselves on the digital image. It was hard to extricate myself to leave but I managed to make it out intact.
The second group was so fun though. They have a sewing business and masonary as well, but they run a school on the grounds. As we were pulling up on the "road" all the kids (about 100) were outside and saw the van coming so they started cheering. We pulled into the yard and they swarmed the car on the side I was on so that when I got out I was surrounded. It was exactly like being a rock star, as Dave likes to point out. There were so many I just held my hands out and they all reached up to touch me.
After the visit, the leader of the group pointed out his daughter who was attending the school and happened to be standing to one side. I pulled out my camera and took a picture of her and tried to show it to her. She became an instant celebrity herself as all the other kids saw the camera and jostled for a good look. I then took a picture of them all and showed them. The kids just love to pose and to see themselves on the digital image. It was hard to extricate myself to leave but I managed to make it out intact.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Obama
Yes, they are Obama crazy here. I guess, since his real father was Kenyan, he is their pride and joy, even though he likely won't be great for them as a country (though he'll be better than Bush...how could he not be?!).
Saturday night we went out for live Kenyan music at a very local Kenyan bar. We stood out so much that the band dedicated a song to us and to Obama. The song? "Congratulations Barak Obama." It was a good band though and an interesting experience.
Yesterday (Monday), I went out to do another training seminar and afterwards this lady came up to me and explained that she was a widow with 3 sons. She then offered me her son. She asked the translator and then she asked me directly in English to tell her my contact info so she could give me her son. Thankfully I didn't need to respond because the translator got me out of it but it was funny, sad, and disturbing all at once.
The past 2 days I spent with Dave going around the banks in Bungoma and understanding their loan programs for Microenterprise groups. It has been interesting work and it will be so helpful to provide the groups with this information to assist them in obtaining loans. ICODEI has a small loan program that they couple with the training, but it is problematic. As a charity, it is sometimes hard to ask for the money back or to pursue actions if groups are late. They simply do not have the capabilities to manage their loan program and don't have proper incentives or motivations for groups to pay back their loans. Continuing with the business training while leaving lending to the lenders would be a much better use of their resources all around. It's also great to be able to provide such strategic advice to ICODEI itself while we are here and to have a lasting impact on the program as well as the groups.
Saturday night we went out for live Kenyan music at a very local Kenyan bar. We stood out so much that the band dedicated a song to us and to Obama. The song? "Congratulations Barak Obama." It was a good band though and an interesting experience.
Yesterday (Monday), I went out to do another training seminar and afterwards this lady came up to me and explained that she was a widow with 3 sons. She then offered me her son. She asked the translator and then she asked me directly in English to tell her my contact info so she could give me her son. Thankfully I didn't need to respond because the translator got me out of it but it was funny, sad, and disturbing all at once.
The past 2 days I spent with Dave going around the banks in Bungoma and understanding their loan programs for Microenterprise groups. It has been interesting work and it will be so helpful to provide the groups with this information to assist them in obtaining loans. ICODEI has a small loan program that they couple with the training, but it is problematic. As a charity, it is sometimes hard to ask for the money back or to pursue actions if groups are late. They simply do not have the capabilities to manage their loan program and don't have proper incentives or motivations for groups to pay back their loans. Continuing with the business training while leaving lending to the lenders would be a much better use of their resources all around. It's also great to be able to provide such strategic advice to ICODEI itself while we are here and to have a lasting impact on the program as well as the groups.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Party Time
Friday, after my last post, I and the other 4 volunteers went to the bar to kill an hour before meeting some other Mazungus (literally British people but used to refer to all whites) for dinner. Eileen, one of the girls from Vancouver, got oggled and basically propositioned by a disgusting guy who already had 2 wives and bought us all a round of beer. Dave, the other MDP volunteer, actually ended up playing it up with him more than protecting Eileen in his role as surrogate boyfriend. But it was vastly entertaining, particularly since we'd basically only eaten a couple of slices of bread each for breakfast that morning. In the end though we managed to extract ourselves without incident, though we sadly had to leave some unfinished beer on the table. (I hope customs doesn't hear about that and not let us back into Canada!)
Dinner was roast goat and it was SO GOOD! We had been invited by some people who are working (i.e. paid) here as part of the One Acre Fund. We then went out and partied with them and ended up at a dance club. I must say, although it is taboo to show public displays of affection, guys often dance together here. I can't say I am comfortable (nor do I wish to become comfortable) with a guy intertwining fingers with me on the dance floor. But it was fun and we again made it safely home in one piece and in one group.
Saturday we got up early (and not too hungover amazingly enough) and took a Matatu (group taxi) down to Kisumu, Kenya's third largest city located on the shores of Lake Victoria. We then got rides to our hotel by Boda Boda, and then took a Tuk Tuk to the waterfront where we went Hippo watching by boat. It wasn't the best time of day for that but it was still fun, relaxing, and cool to see hippos.
Matatu is a van cammed with seats and each seat is crammed with people. They have set routes and you squish yourself in with as many people as can possibly find in such a confined space and then you try not to injure yourself as they bomb down the roads that are almost more potholes than pavement.
The Boda Boda are bikes with padding where the rat-traps typically would be. You sit on the back of them and the driver tries not to kill you as you weave through the traffic.
Tuk Tukare motor-vehicles that seat about 3 people (though we always cram all 5 of us in) that are essentially covered motor bikes. (Similar to those found elsewhere in the world, especially India and Bangkok - and like in the movie Amal.)
Dinner was roast goat and it was SO GOOD! We had been invited by some people who are working (i.e. paid) here as part of the One Acre Fund. We then went out and partied with them and ended up at a dance club. I must say, although it is taboo to show public displays of affection, guys often dance together here. I can't say I am comfortable (nor do I wish to become comfortable) with a guy intertwining fingers with me on the dance floor. But it was fun and we again made it safely home in one piece and in one group.
Saturday we got up early (and not too hungover amazingly enough) and took a Matatu (group taxi) down to Kisumu, Kenya's third largest city located on the shores of Lake Victoria. We then got rides to our hotel by Boda Boda, and then took a Tuk Tuk to the waterfront where we went Hippo watching by boat. It wasn't the best time of day for that but it was still fun, relaxing, and cool to see hippos.
Matatu is a van cammed with seats and each seat is crammed with people. They have set routes and you squish yourself in with as many people as can possibly find in such a confined space and then you try not to injure yourself as they bomb down the roads that are almost more potholes than pavement.
The Boda Boda are bikes with padding where the rat-traps typically would be. You sit on the back of them and the driver tries not to kill you as you weave through the traffic.
Tuk Tukare motor-vehicles that seat about 3 people (though we always cram all 5 of us in) that are essentially covered motor bikes. (Similar to those found elsewhere in the world, especially India and Bangkok - and like in the movie Amal.)
Friday, February 6, 2009
Birthday Party
Internet access again. Woohoo!
So after I left the cafe yesterday, we picked up piles of candy and ice cream and we went and bought some shoes for the daughter of the owner of the farm who was having a birthday. It was extremely comical to have 2 clueless white guys trying to find school shoes for an 11-year old black Kenyan girl in the middle Bungoma, a place where white people alone is a strange enough sight. But you have never seen such a big, beautiful smile as when she opened them. They cost all of $15 (shared between us 5 volunteers) and were absolutely perfect. It is incredible to see such joy taken in the simplest of things, in something that most Canadians would be disappointed with if they got as a present. School shoes? You got me school shoes? Her brother's jaw was on the floor in jealousy when he saw them.
Heading out for my first beer shortly with the other volunteers and a couple of guys (1 from US and 1 from UK) that are working here. They came by the other night and invited us out for roast goat (a Kenyan specialty) and beer (apparently Kenya beer is good - I'll let you know).
...I'm working really hard. I swear.
So after I left the cafe yesterday, we picked up piles of candy and ice cream and we went and bought some shoes for the daughter of the owner of the farm who was having a birthday. It was extremely comical to have 2 clueless white guys trying to find school shoes for an 11-year old black Kenyan girl in the middle Bungoma, a place where white people alone is a strange enough sight. But you have never seen such a big, beautiful smile as when she opened them. They cost all of $15 (shared between us 5 volunteers) and were absolutely perfect. It is incredible to see such joy taken in the simplest of things, in something that most Canadians would be disappointed with if they got as a present. School shoes? You got me school shoes? Her brother's jaw was on the floor in jealousy when he saw them.
Heading out for my first beer shortly with the other volunteers and a couple of guys (1 from US and 1 from UK) that are working here. They came by the other night and invited us out for roast goat (a Kenyan specialty) and beer (apparently Kenya beer is good - I'll let you know).
...I'm working really hard. I swear.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Arrival and first day
Well I've safely arrived and am having a great time so far. I was lucky enough to get a row to myself on the plane from Amsterdam to Nairobi so I could stretch out and sleep.
I didn't see much of the hostel but Nairobi looked magical at sunrise on the taxi ride to the bus station. The driving is just something else here. They are as crazy as anyone, including the Italians, when it comes to road rules. The driver was running all the red lights so I asked him about it and he said they don't apply before 7am because "there isn't much traffic." Of course this didn't stop him getting into a game of chicken trying to merge with a bus. When he lost he beat the car door with his hand I guess because his horn sounded more like a bicycle horn than a car horn, but it was more of a congratulations to the other driver than anything like frustration. People here are far to easy going to get road rage.
The driving around the village where I'm staying is different basically because not many people have cars so the roads are covered in people on bikes and on foot. Somehow the drivers manage to get up to 80km/h while dogging people and mortor-sized potholes.
The farm is nice. There were 2 other volunteers here when I arrived and 2 more arrived last night, 1 day after me. And they are all Canadian!!! The 3 girls are part of the health care program so they run moble clinics where they drive to different local communities each day to provide care and medicine.
Dave, the other volunteer, and I work with the Microenterprise Development Program (MDP) and drive to local communities and groups to give seminars and administer micro-loans.
Yesterday, my first day, was so incredible. I was shadowing Dave as he gave a seminar to about 7 people and then they offered us lunch, which consisted of a chicken from their chicken "farm" and ugali, a tasteless substance of flour and water. (You have to eat it too because it would be offensive to turn down the food, especially when they have so little.) By the way, when I say chicken farm, I just mean the ground around the hut we were in, which served as a small church and living accomodations for the paster, each room being about twice the size of my cubicle at work.
We were driving back and the "road" (which was just a track through some people's back yards) was blocked by a tree and a half-dozen Kenyans standing around trying to fix a chainsaw. So we stopped and the driver and translator got out and hung out with the Kenyans while we waited for the chainsaw to be fixed. Nobody said anything about the delay. Nobody yelled at them to hurry up or to get out of the way. They just got out and casually sat around waiting. "Hakuna Matata!"
By the time we did our second seminar, Dave had to leave for a meeting in town so I was thrown head first into giving the seminar to about 12 people. It actually went pretty well, mainly because I plagerized all the stories from Dave's seminar and the translator convinced them all I was telling the truth. It is great though. Fascinating, beautiful, fulfilling, exciting...
Today we had to go visit a group that was delinquent in their payments by about 15 months. The officers of the group were away at a meeting (even though our meeting was pre-arranged - or perhaps because it was pre-arranged), so we met with just one woman who didn't have any of the paperwork (we're not convinced there is any). It was awkward for 2 rich Mazungus to say to a poor African woman that she has to come up with the equivalent of $25 in overdue payments or we would have to send an agent to sue her. To put that in perspective, we just bought lunch for 2 in town - 2 large cokes, a small meat pie, and a giant curry and fries - for about $3.
Anyway, I'm having an amazing time, loving every minute, I haven't had any issues of any kind so far (knock on wood!). Kenya is very much what I guess I expected - as stereotypically African in every way as portrayed in the western world. And I sure don't miss the cold!!
I didn't see much of the hostel but Nairobi looked magical at sunrise on the taxi ride to the bus station. The driving is just something else here. They are as crazy as anyone, including the Italians, when it comes to road rules. The driver was running all the red lights so I asked him about it and he said they don't apply before 7am because "there isn't much traffic." Of course this didn't stop him getting into a game of chicken trying to merge with a bus. When he lost he beat the car door with his hand I guess because his horn sounded more like a bicycle horn than a car horn, but it was more of a congratulations to the other driver than anything like frustration. People here are far to easy going to get road rage.
The driving around the village where I'm staying is different basically because not many people have cars so the roads are covered in people on bikes and on foot. Somehow the drivers manage to get up to 80km/h while dogging people and mortor-sized potholes.
The farm is nice. There were 2 other volunteers here when I arrived and 2 more arrived last night, 1 day after me. And they are all Canadian!!! The 3 girls are part of the health care program so they run moble clinics where they drive to different local communities each day to provide care and medicine.
Dave, the other volunteer, and I work with the Microenterprise Development Program (MDP) and drive to local communities and groups to give seminars and administer micro-loans.
Yesterday, my first day, was so incredible. I was shadowing Dave as he gave a seminar to about 7 people and then they offered us lunch, which consisted of a chicken from their chicken "farm" and ugali, a tasteless substance of flour and water. (You have to eat it too because it would be offensive to turn down the food, especially when they have so little.) By the way, when I say chicken farm, I just mean the ground around the hut we were in, which served as a small church and living accomodations for the paster, each room being about twice the size of my cubicle at work.
We were driving back and the "road" (which was just a track through some people's back yards) was blocked by a tree and a half-dozen Kenyans standing around trying to fix a chainsaw. So we stopped and the driver and translator got out and hung out with the Kenyans while we waited for the chainsaw to be fixed. Nobody said anything about the delay. Nobody yelled at them to hurry up or to get out of the way. They just got out and casually sat around waiting. "Hakuna Matata!"
By the time we did our second seminar, Dave had to leave for a meeting in town so I was thrown head first into giving the seminar to about 12 people. It actually went pretty well, mainly because I plagerized all the stories from Dave's seminar and the translator convinced them all I was telling the truth. It is great though. Fascinating, beautiful, fulfilling, exciting...
Today we had to go visit a group that was delinquent in their payments by about 15 months. The officers of the group were away at a meeting (even though our meeting was pre-arranged - or perhaps because it was pre-arranged), so we met with just one woman who didn't have any of the paperwork (we're not convinced there is any). It was awkward for 2 rich Mazungus to say to a poor African woman that she has to come up with the equivalent of $25 in overdue payments or we would have to send an agent to sue her. To put that in perspective, we just bought lunch for 2 in town - 2 large cokes, a small meat pie, and a giant curry and fries - for about $3.
Anyway, I'm having an amazing time, loving every minute, I haven't had any issues of any kind so far (knock on wood!). Kenya is very much what I guess I expected - as stereotypically African in every way as portrayed in the western world. And I sure don't miss the cold!!
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
The Plan
My trip is divided into two sections really. For the first 6 weeks I'll be volunteering in rural Western Kenya. After that, I'll be headed south on Safari for a month. Let me start there because it is quick to pass on the details:
Safari
What: Safari. I just told you that. Are you reading any of this?
Where: Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana and South Africa
With: Acacia Africa
Tour Website: http://www.acacia-africa.com/HolidayDetails.aspx?tc=SEAA32&ProductID=7
Volunteering
What: Micro-enterprise Development
What?!: The idea started in Bangladesh by a guy called Mohammad Yannis (see he book Banker to the Poor for more), who won the nobel peace prize for starting a bank that would lend money to poor people. Basically, groups of the poorest people, the "extreme poor" (those living on less than $1 a day), obviously have no means of collateral because they cannot accumulate wealth. All of their income goes to surviving, and there isn't even enough for that. So they go to this special bank and are given a loan (typically under $2500, and mostly far smaller than that). They are then free from the oppressive interest rates and demands of the moneylenders and can start their own businesses. They form groups so that each member is accountable for the repayment of the loan (and repayment is an amazing 99%, higher even than secured loans in First World countries) and so that each member also has help with their own business and can in turn help with the businesses of the other members to ensure that all the businesses benefit from the combined efforts and skills of the entire group. And slowly but surely, often taking out additional bigger loans, these people are able to build enough wealth to buy food, clothing, shelter, education, and health care for them and their families, and eventually to get savings and future re-investment capital.
And this is where I come in. The charity, Volunteer Kenya (http://www.volunteerkenya.org/) or ICODEI as it is known in Kenya (pronounced Eco-day), takes on volunteers to provide development assistance, which means that I'll be helping the groups to develop their businesses, their projects, their ideas, and their knowledge. The two biggest components of this are business seminars and site visits.
For the seminars, I travel to the areas where there are groups who have set up or are looking to set up micro-enterprises and I provide free 6-hr business skills training seminars to them. These cover the basic business topics: income, expenses, profit, loss, costing, pricing, basic accounting and then on to more advanced topics such as business planning, use of profits, cost/benefit analysis, marketing and sales, competition, customer service, and so on.
The site visits are basically consultations where I will go to the enterprises set up by groups in areas nearby. Typical operations are honey farming, vegitable or livestock farming, matatus (bicycle taxis), baking, etc. During the consultations, I sit down with each group and go over their bookkeeping and review the revenues and expenses, discuss opportunities for attaining or improving profitability, and help groups to address areas of weakness in the planning and execution.
By the way, I should mention, despite an MBA with a focus on Entrepreneurship and my previous experience teaching, I'm completely unqualified to do this. I know I'll be learning a lot more than my students and I'm both excited and nervous.
Where: I'll be living on a farm in a small village called Kabula in Western Kenya. It is small enough that it doesn't even show on Google maps, but the nearby town Bungoma, can be seen near Kenya's western boarder with Uganda, just south of the highway from Nairobi to Kampala and about 1.5 hours north of Lake Victoria.
View Larger Map
The farm has all the modern amenities, including flush toilets (really, this is a rarety I'm told), laundry (by which I mean a bucket to heat some water in) and a yes, even a shower (by which I also mean a bucket to heat some water in, but with the added bonus of a second bucket with which to pour water on myself while I stand in the first bucket).
Don't worry, I had to use up my vacation time to go so for part of this I'm still technically getting paid. Uh...yeah. Anyone want to come visit? Don't worry. The yellow fever shots don't have THAT many side effects. No?
Safari
What: Safari. I just told you that. Are you reading any of this?
Where: Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana and South Africa
With: Acacia Africa
Tour Website: http://www.acacia-africa.com/HolidayDetails.aspx?tc=SEAA32&ProductID=7
Volunteering
What: Micro-enterprise Development
What?!: The idea started in Bangladesh by a guy called Mohammad Yannis (see he book Banker to the Poor for more), who won the nobel peace prize for starting a bank that would lend money to poor people. Basically, groups of the poorest people, the "extreme poor" (those living on less than $1 a day), obviously have no means of collateral because they cannot accumulate wealth. All of their income goes to surviving, and there isn't even enough for that. So they go to this special bank and are given a loan (typically under $2500, and mostly far smaller than that). They are then free from the oppressive interest rates and demands of the moneylenders and can start their own businesses. They form groups so that each member is accountable for the repayment of the loan (and repayment is an amazing 99%, higher even than secured loans in First World countries) and so that each member also has help with their own business and can in turn help with the businesses of the other members to ensure that all the businesses benefit from the combined efforts and skills of the entire group. And slowly but surely, often taking out additional bigger loans, these people are able to build enough wealth to buy food, clothing, shelter, education, and health care for them and their families, and eventually to get savings and future re-investment capital.
And this is where I come in. The charity, Volunteer Kenya (http://www.volunteerkenya.org/) or ICODEI as it is known in Kenya (pronounced Eco-day), takes on volunteers to provide development assistance, which means that I'll be helping the groups to develop their businesses, their projects, their ideas, and their knowledge. The two biggest components of this are business seminars and site visits.
For the seminars, I travel to the areas where there are groups who have set up or are looking to set up micro-enterprises and I provide free 6-hr business skills training seminars to them. These cover the basic business topics: income, expenses, profit, loss, costing, pricing, basic accounting and then on to more advanced topics such as business planning, use of profits, cost/benefit analysis, marketing and sales, competition, customer service, and so on.
The site visits are basically consultations where I will go to the enterprises set up by groups in areas nearby. Typical operations are honey farming, vegitable or livestock farming, matatus (bicycle taxis), baking, etc. During the consultations, I sit down with each group and go over their bookkeeping and review the revenues and expenses, discuss opportunities for attaining or improving profitability, and help groups to address areas of weakness in the planning and execution.
By the way, I should mention, despite an MBA with a focus on Entrepreneurship and my previous experience teaching, I'm completely unqualified to do this. I know I'll be learning a lot more than my students and I'm both excited and nervous.
Where: I'll be living on a farm in a small village called Kabula in Western Kenya. It is small enough that it doesn't even show on Google maps, but the nearby town Bungoma, can be seen near Kenya's western boarder with Uganda, just south of the highway from Nairobi to Kampala and about 1.5 hours north of Lake Victoria.
View Larger Map
The farm has all the modern amenities, including flush toilets (really, this is a rarety I'm told), laundry (by which I mean a bucket to heat some water in) and a yes, even a shower (by which I also mean a bucket to heat some water in, but with the added bonus of a second bucket with which to pour water on myself while I stand in the first bucket).
Don't worry, I had to use up my vacation time to go so for part of this I'm still technically getting paid. Uh...yeah. Anyone want to come visit? Don't worry. The yellow fever shots don't have THAT many side effects. No?
And So It Begins...
Hi everyone,
Well I'm finally headed to Africa, after years of yearing and one near miss (and a trip to South Africa when I was young). Herein I will be attempting to communicate the amazing things I see and experience. With luck, I'll not only find internet cafés to post from, but also some of what I write will actually be interesting.
See you all again in April.
Alistair
Well I'm finally headed to Africa, after years of yearing and one near miss (and a trip to South Africa when I was young). Herein I will be attempting to communicate the amazing things I see and experience. With luck, I'll not only find internet cafés to post from, but also some of what I write will actually be interesting.
See you all again in April.
Alistair