I've now been in Malawi for a little over 24 hours. It poured last night, the first major rain all trip (I've had minor downpours before but never for long). Foretunately today is really sunny but not too hot.
Malawi is really green and lush and surprisingly hilly for such a small country that is dominated by such a big lake. It is even noticably greener than Tanzania, which itself seemed very green compared to Kenya. Then again, Kenya was at the end (hopefully) of a long drought when I was there while to the south in Africa there have been having heavy rainy seasons. The Zambezi is apparently quite full, which will make my view of the falls next week all the more spectacular.
But for now, it is nice to swim, dry out, and actually get on the internet for a few minutes. My opportunities to do so have been very limited as we drive such vast distances across such remote areas.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Zanzibar
Well this place really sucks. I've spent 2 days lying on the beach, swimming in warm water, playing beach volleyball, reading, relaxing, getting a massage, partying... Yeah. It's a horrible life.
Actually, it is really really hot here. I have to avoid the sun because I'll be a lobster colour in about 15 minutes, even with sun screen on, as the sun is so scortching. I took a quick dip at midnight last night because I was so hot. It was glorious under the stars with the phosphoresence. The water is quite salty but very refreshing and a beautiful azure colour against the white sand. It is cheap by Western standards but quite expensive when you add it all up, and it is only off season here.
I have more pictures but due to the slow speed of uploading, limited local currency to pay for internet time, and more pressing things to do (see above), I won't be uploading any more for now. Sorry. I will try to post more soon.
Actually, it is really really hot here. I have to avoid the sun because I'll be a lobster colour in about 15 minutes, even with sun screen on, as the sun is so scortching. I took a quick dip at midnight last night because I was so hot. It was glorious under the stars with the phosphoresence. The water is quite salty but very refreshing and a beautiful azure colour against the white sand. It is cheap by Western standards but quite expensive when you add it all up, and it is only off season here.
I have more pictures but due to the slow speed of uploading, limited local currency to pay for internet time, and more pressing things to do (see above), I won't be uploading any more for now. Sorry. I will try to post more soon.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Safari
Finally a chance to blog for a just minute...
It has been a week now that I've been on my safari. I spent 3 days driving through the Massai Mara, a national park in Kenya that adjoins to the Serengeti in Tanzania. From there we travelled back to Nairobi for a night before heading down to Arusha in Tanzania and then on to the Serengeti for another 3 days. It seems like a long way around but there aren't really other roads, they would be so rough if there were, and the serengeti is so massive that it would take longer to drive directly through.
We saw all of the following up close: Lion (male and female), baboons, monkeys, eland, elephant (my personal favourite), a leopard (actually not that close, but still cool), girafe, zebra, emu, flamingo (ok, not that close either), hyena, black rhino (i.e. all of the so called |"big 5"), jackal, vultures, cranes, numerous other birds and of course, millions of wildebeast.
I also sold my first born to take a hot air balloon over the serengeti. It was stunning and so endless. We saw some amazing things from up there, but unfortunately while the 4 of us who did it were up in the balloon the others did a game drive and saw lions mating and hyenas devouring a kill. Either way, I would rather have been at my desk working...
We've now arrived in Dar Es Salaam after 2 long hot days of driving. We head straight over to Zanzibar in the morning for the next 3 nights. I'll be visiting stone town where the spice markets are, then heading to the beach to make sure my tan will not wash off in my first shower when I get home.
It has been a week now that I've been on my safari. I spent 3 days driving through the Massai Mara, a national park in Kenya that adjoins to the Serengeti in Tanzania. From there we travelled back to Nairobi for a night before heading down to Arusha in Tanzania and then on to the Serengeti for another 3 days. It seems like a long way around but there aren't really other roads, they would be so rough if there were, and the serengeti is so massive that it would take longer to drive directly through.
We saw all of the following up close: Lion (male and female), baboons, monkeys, eland, elephant (my personal favourite), a leopard (actually not that close, but still cool), girafe, zebra, emu, flamingo (ok, not that close either), hyena, black rhino (i.e. all of the so called |"big 5"), jackal, vultures, cranes, numerous other birds and of course, millions of wildebeast.
I also sold my first born to take a hot air balloon over the serengeti. It was stunning and so endless. We saw some amazing things from up there, but unfortunately while the 4 of us who did it were up in the balloon the others did a game drive and saw lions mating and hyenas devouring a kill. Either way, I would rather have been at my desk working...
We've now arrived in Dar Es Salaam after 2 long hot days of driving. We head straight over to Zanzibar in the morning for the next 3 nights. I'll be visiting stone town where the spice markets are, then heading to the beach to make sure my tan will not wash off in my first shower when I get home.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Knock On Wood
I'm pleased to report I have not had any medical issues of any kind short of a tickle at the back of my throat this past week which has not developed into a cold.
The food has been...basic. Breakfast is usually white bread with jam. Lunch varies from nothing to rice and sukuma wiki (kale) to beans to a feast of chicken, sukuma wiki, ugali (maize flour and water - incredibly bland!), and Fanta. Dinner is chapiti (half-way between a tortilla and naan), mashed potato, or rice and one of spagetti, crazy rice (rice with potatoes and spice), beef, or lentils, plus either cabbage or sukuma wiki. It is hardly balanced and can be very carbohydrate heavy but it does the job.
The food has been...basic. Breakfast is usually white bread with jam. Lunch varies from nothing to rice and sukuma wiki (kale) to beans to a feast of chicken, sukuma wiki, ugali (maize flour and water - incredibly bland!), and Fanta. Dinner is chapiti (half-way between a tortilla and naan), mashed potato, or rice and one of spagetti, crazy rice (rice with potatoes and spice), beef, or lentils, plus either cabbage or sukuma wiki. It is hardly balanced and can be very carbohydrate heavy but it does the job.
Happy Ending
After a slow couple of weeks I was glad to end my volunteer experience on a high. I spent the morning discussing improvements to the program with the program manager. After lunch, we stopped by a group we had been visiting yesterday for a loan repayment. They are a women's singing group and they were having a practice this afternoon. They welcomed our arrival with a song and dance and then serenaded us and even sung songs using our names. It was inspiring, heart-warming and joyous.
We then headed directly into town for a last crack at the internet (and eventually for dinner). As we were passing by the salon across the road, they called me and asked me to come up. They then proceeded to clean my hands, feet and shoes again free of charge.
So anyone who finds themselves in Bungoma, Kenya should definitely go to the Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor! Their great service and quality cuts will leave you smiling every time. Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor. Get clean without showering.
We then headed directly into town for a last crack at the internet (and eventually for dinner). As we were passing by the salon across the road, they called me and asked me to come up. They then proceeded to clean my hands, feet and shoes again free of charge.
So anyone who finds themselves in Bungoma, Kenya should definitely go to the Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor! Their great service and quality cuts will leave you smiling every time. Bungoma Men's Beauty Parlor. Get clean without showering.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
The Rainforest
The rainforest itself was a collection of beautiful trees, butterflies, birds, and monkies. My camera died part way through our hike on Saturday but thankfully I had my charge and adapter with me and managed to beg them to let me use the stored up solar power to recharge it in the evening enough to last for the morning hike.
In the morning we did a sunrise hike that got us up on a hill overlooking the rainforest. It was a beautiful panorama and a stunning sunrise. I was so glad to be able to capture it on film, even though it doesn't truly compare.
I've posted a few more of the best pics of the last 6 weeks.
In the morning we did a sunrise hike that got us up on a hill overlooking the rainforest. It was a beautiful panorama and a stunning sunrise. I was so glad to be able to capture it on film, even though it doesn't truly compare.
I've posted a few more of the best pics of the last 6 weeks.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Last Weekend at ICODEI
This was my last weekend at ICODEI where I have now spent almost 6 weeks. On this coming Saturday I leave for Nairobi where I begin my safari.
On Saturday we said goodbye to 3 of the volunteers, and the remaining 4 of us went down Kakamanga rain forest for some hiking. We had quite an adventure getting there. First we accidentally hitch-hiked for a while when Emily stuck her thumb out as a joke and the guy stopped. He turned out to be a nice pastor with an even nicer car, which sure beat bumping around in the back of a matatu.
We then got a matatu from where he dropped us and I scored a front seat, which is by far the best place to be...if you have the courage to watch the road ahead. That got us in to town, at which point our driver offered to take us to our destination (for a price of course) instead of us having to take piki-piki (motor bikes), which we jumped at. Unfortunately, although he knew of the rain forest, apparently there are 2 entrances to the park. So after 30 minutes down bumpy dirt roads, we found ourselves at the wrong spot and in a bit of a disagreement with our driver about how much we should pay to get to the right spot. Fortunately, like most people, he soon became philosophical about it - hakuna matata - and agreed to take us to the right spot even if he took a loss because he wanted us to be happy.
I also had an entertaining conversation with him about gay marriage; like most Kenyans he disagrees with it (homosexuality is illegal here) but he was surprisingly open-minded to what I said. (Uh, no, I'm not gay but that doesn't mean I think others should be deprived of basic human rights.)
That didn't stop him from offering to buy one of my "sisters" (the other volunteers) as a second wife. Polygamy is common here, as is paying a dowery (a dozen or so cows) to the parents of the bride. They don't seem to understand that mazungus aren't really interested in being second or third wives. And what's more their perfectly blunt about asking. It is usually about the third thing they say. 1) "Hi. How are you?" 2) "Assist me with money." 3) "How much for your 'sister'?" We normally just ask for so much everyone laughs it off but every once in a while someone says he agrees, like with our matatu driver, at which point you have to explain that it isn't possible...or just go along with it since they likely could never come up with that much anyway.
...I could though. A few Kenyan wives wouldn't be too bad either. I'm going to rename them though. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday...
On Saturday we said goodbye to 3 of the volunteers, and the remaining 4 of us went down Kakamanga rain forest for some hiking. We had quite an adventure getting there. First we accidentally hitch-hiked for a while when Emily stuck her thumb out as a joke and the guy stopped. He turned out to be a nice pastor with an even nicer car, which sure beat bumping around in the back of a matatu.
We then got a matatu from where he dropped us and I scored a front seat, which is by far the best place to be...if you have the courage to watch the road ahead. That got us in to town, at which point our driver offered to take us to our destination (for a price of course) instead of us having to take piki-piki (motor bikes), which we jumped at. Unfortunately, although he knew of the rain forest, apparently there are 2 entrances to the park. So after 30 minutes down bumpy dirt roads, we found ourselves at the wrong spot and in a bit of a disagreement with our driver about how much we should pay to get to the right spot. Fortunately, like most people, he soon became philosophical about it - hakuna matata - and agreed to take us to the right spot even if he took a loss because he wanted us to be happy.
I also had an entertaining conversation with him about gay marriage; like most Kenyans he disagrees with it (homosexuality is illegal here) but he was surprisingly open-minded to what I said. (Uh, no, I'm not gay but that doesn't mean I think others should be deprived of basic human rights.)
That didn't stop him from offering to buy one of my "sisters" (the other volunteers) as a second wife. Polygamy is common here, as is paying a dowery (a dozen or so cows) to the parents of the bride. They don't seem to understand that mazungus aren't really interested in being second or third wives. And what's more their perfectly blunt about asking. It is usually about the third thing they say. 1) "Hi. How are you?" 2) "Assist me with money." 3) "How much for your 'sister'?" We normally just ask for so much everyone laughs it off but every once in a while someone says he agrees, like with our matatu driver, at which point you have to explain that it isn't possible...or just go along with it since they likely could never come up with that much anyway.
...I could though. A few Kenyan wives wouldn't be too bad either. I'm going to rename them though. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday...
Weather
A slight correction: it has actually been hotter in Bungoma. 28 was for Nairobi but I'm pretty sure it has been getting close to 35 in this area. And very few people have fridges or fans (i.e. cold drinks are only available at some stores and fans only in the nicest of restaurants). Air conditioning is unheard of.
The rains are overdue and the current drought is causing significant problems here in Kenya. For me it is nice, especially as we can still get around the dirt roads and don't get bogged down in mud and have to push the car out (though we still have to push the car to get it started - this is Africa after all).
The rains are overdue and the current drought is causing significant problems here in Kenya. For me it is nice, especially as we can still get around the dirt roads and don't get bogged down in mud and have to push the car out (though we still have to push the car to get it started - this is Africa after all).
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Gee. That sucks.
So I was just informed that the weather in Toronto has been -10 or worse for over a week. I just thought I'd let everyone know the weather here has been around 28 every day. I've seen some clouds and even lightening...in the distance...probably over Lake Victoria...
The Haircut
The other thing I forgot to mention that happened last week is that I went to get a haircut, a big risk here as they don't really know how to cut Mazungu hair. (It was after this that I was at an HIV seminar given by one of the other volunteers where they said you can get HIV at the barber if they don't clean the blades properly and they cut you).
I asked someone on the farm who is around volunteers and might know and he sent me to a place that was apparently new. They charged me 500 KSh, which is less than $10 (but which is a lot here). So not worrying about the money and needing a haircut I agreed and sat in the chair offered.
First they took off my shoes (sport sandals) which I thought a bit odd, but what the heck, I don't know the local custom. Maybe they just do that to make you comfortable. Of all the things to steal, my shoes would probably have been the last thing they could have sold for money given the colour of my feet. Then the guy washed my face and hair with a warm cloth and I thought "OK, they'll shave me too. No problem. I've had that before. I shaved this morning but so what." But they didn't in the end (Judging by the colour of the face cloth when they finished, I think they were probably just cleaning the filthy Mazungu). Then he started cutting my hair and though I was a bit worried I've had some bad cuts in my time and it grows in a week so I tried my best to smile (since talking was limited by the barber's very limited English). That is about the last part of the "haircut" that resembled what I'm used to.
After a while, someone else came in with warm water and started washing my hands. She washed right up to my elbows and then started cleaning under my fingernails (which were more black than white) and filing my nails. Meanwhile another guy started cleaning my other arm and hand.
I began to feel bad for them all when they had to get more clean water because I was so dirty. That was the point at which they moved on to my feet and began washing all the way up to my knees and under my toenails. Not bad I thought. A manicure and a pedicure thrown in with the haircut. I could get used to this.
So then they asked me to get up and go to the sink where they washed my freshly cut hair. No problem. They'd given me nice comfy sandals to wear while I was there. On the way I discovered what happened to my shoes. Someone else was cleaning them. They were cleaning my shoes!! Not just rinsing them. Scrubbing the red African soil out of every crevass. Once they'd finished I wanted to stay there not only because it was so great but also because my shoes were never going to be this clean again!
But they weren't done yet. After the hair wash, I returned to the chair, which they reclined way back and proceeded to give me a short head and shoulder massage. They then took a hair dryer, or at least I thought so, until they blew it on my face and I realised it was warm but also humidified air. So they exfoliated my face and I just lay there and enjoyed the pampering.
They returned my shoes in pristine condition and I gladly handed over my money plus a handsome tip, for although tipping is not common here at all I felt not only did they deserve it but they'd been through a fairly unpleasant experience. And it still came to less than $10. I think I'll start going weekly!
And the haircut was pretty good too.
I asked someone on the farm who is around volunteers and might know and he sent me to a place that was apparently new. They charged me 500 KSh, which is less than $10 (but which is a lot here). So not worrying about the money and needing a haircut I agreed and sat in the chair offered.
First they took off my shoes (sport sandals) which I thought a bit odd, but what the heck, I don't know the local custom. Maybe they just do that to make you comfortable. Of all the things to steal, my shoes would probably have been the last thing they could have sold for money given the colour of my feet. Then the guy washed my face and hair with a warm cloth and I thought "OK, they'll shave me too. No problem. I've had that before. I shaved this morning but so what." But they didn't in the end (Judging by the colour of the face cloth when they finished, I think they were probably just cleaning the filthy Mazungu). Then he started cutting my hair and though I was a bit worried I've had some bad cuts in my time and it grows in a week so I tried my best to smile (since talking was limited by the barber's very limited English). That is about the last part of the "haircut" that resembled what I'm used to.
After a while, someone else came in with warm water and started washing my hands. She washed right up to my elbows and then started cleaning under my fingernails (which were more black than white) and filing my nails. Meanwhile another guy started cleaning my other arm and hand.
I began to feel bad for them all when they had to get more clean water because I was so dirty. That was the point at which they moved on to my feet and began washing all the way up to my knees and under my toenails. Not bad I thought. A manicure and a pedicure thrown in with the haircut. I could get used to this.
So then they asked me to get up and go to the sink where they washed my freshly cut hair. No problem. They'd given me nice comfy sandals to wear while I was there. On the way I discovered what happened to my shoes. Someone else was cleaning them. They were cleaning my shoes!! Not just rinsing them. Scrubbing the red African soil out of every crevass. Once they'd finished I wanted to stay there not only because it was so great but also because my shoes were never going to be this clean again!
But they weren't done yet. After the hair wash, I returned to the chair, which they reclined way back and proceeded to give me a short head and shoulder massage. They then took a hair dryer, or at least I thought so, until they blew it on my face and I realised it was warm but also humidified air. So they exfoliated my face and I just lay there and enjoyed the pampering.
They returned my shoes in pristine condition and I gladly handed over my money plus a handsome tip, for although tipping is not common here at all I felt not only did they deserve it but they'd been through a fairly unpleasant experience. And it still came to less than $10. I think I'll start going weekly!
And the haircut was pretty good too.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
A Weekend Off
So this past weekend was my one weekend hanging around the farm during my stay at ICODEI. We used the opportunity to visit the home of one of the staff members who gave us a wonderful lunch. Her husband works for about the only big business in the area, Mumias Sugar, as a manager in their factory so they had a very nice home compared to most people. They even had power and a TV so we watched The Gods Must Be Crazy, which is a great and entertaining film on its own (If you haven't seen it, go watch it!) but has a whole new level of amusement now that were are living it. Our vehicles are in even worse shape than the one in that movie and we spend a significant amount of time, especially recently, pushing them to get them started or occasionally unstuck from ditches or potholes.
The night before we'd been out and of course I don't drink at all but everyone else was feeling pretty rough. The funny part though was the bar had played a couple of Shania songs, which we took as an opportunity to tease one Emily (the other MDP volunteer) who insists that Canada has the worst contributions to musical culture. After our movie, our host then put on a DVD of...yup, Celine Dion videos. This was pushing it even for me but one of the other Canadians even knew the words and of course we couldn't waste the opportunity to further harass Emily.
In the evening we came back and had a bonfire at the farm, complete with a bastardized version of Smores (a Canadian campfile classic of chocolate and marshmallow melted between Graham crackers). Since we couldn't get marshmallows or Graham crackers, we had chocolate on gingersnaps. (You do what you can.)
Now although ICODEI is a non-secular organization, the director is an Episcopalian minister. He has about 21 churches that he visits on a rotational basis and Sunday he just happened to be preaching at the one near us. So we all got dressed up and did our best to partake (given our range of beliefs). They did what they could to preach a bit in English so we could understand. It was even interesting, particularly when politics entered into the sermon. (The Agriculture minister got caught in a big scam that bled more than 7 Billion KSh (over $100M CAD) from the public funds - and who kept his job because they made a deal with the opposition who had also had a minister caught in a scam.) The coolest part was the singing though, complete with 2 drums (played very well by a couple of guys in the congregation) and two old ladies ululating. The kids even danced in a out through the center of the church a couple of times and then did 2 special songs at the end, something they'd been learning as part of Sunday School.
The night before we'd been out and of course I don't drink at all but everyone else was feeling pretty rough. The funny part though was the bar had played a couple of Shania songs, which we took as an opportunity to tease one Emily (the other MDP volunteer) who insists that Canada has the worst contributions to musical culture. After our movie, our host then put on a DVD of...yup, Celine Dion videos. This was pushing it even for me but one of the other Canadians even knew the words and of course we couldn't waste the opportunity to further harass Emily.
In the evening we came back and had a bonfire at the farm, complete with a bastardized version of Smores (a Canadian campfile classic of chocolate and marshmallow melted between Graham crackers). Since we couldn't get marshmallows or Graham crackers, we had chocolate on gingersnaps. (You do what you can.)
Now although ICODEI is a non-secular organization, the director is an Episcopalian minister. He has about 21 churches that he visits on a rotational basis and Sunday he just happened to be preaching at the one near us. So we all got dressed up and did our best to partake (given our range of beliefs). They did what they could to preach a bit in English so we could understand. It was even interesting, particularly when politics entered into the sermon. (The Agriculture minister got caught in a big scam that bled more than 7 Billion KSh (over $100M CAD) from the public funds - and who kept his job because they made a deal with the opposition who had also had a minister caught in a scam.) The coolest part was the singing though, complete with 2 drums (played very well by a couple of guys in the congregation) and two old ladies ululating. The kids even danced in a out through the center of the church a couple of times and then did 2 special songs at the end, something they'd been learning as part of Sunday School.
River Rafting on the Nile - Check
I'm a little behind as I haven't had a lot of access to the Internet lately. The weekend before last we went to Jinja in Uganda to do some river rafting. It was expensive and painful but very worth it.
We left at a reasonable hour and took a very comfortable matatu to Malaba, on the border of Kenya and Uganda. We crossed the border on foot and I found it to be everything that Hollywood might make out a border crossing in the third world to be. We crossed a bridge and although there wasn't much security you got the feeling that there was much more that you couldn't see, and it was in a depression that seemed to magnify the heat of the day.
Uganda was immediately different; the people looked different; we couldn't tell if they spoke the same language (which they do and they don't); and the currency was worth way less but the prices were much higher. The matatus were the same but somehow different. We all agreed that they were much less pleasant but we couldn't say why because they were just as full, dirty, hot, sweaty, stinky, and uncomfortable. I guess it came down to driving. The roads were in better condition but the drivers were not. We passed a couple of bodies that had been knocked from Piki-Pikis and we even got hit (very lightly). We were all stopped for road works and our driver tried to budge ahead and then merge. Apparently the guy behind wasn't happy and decided not to stop (or was too busy blocking everyone else). The weirdest thing was our driver ended up having to pay the other guy, even though he was in front and he had the damage to his car (just a crumpled tail-light).
Anyway, we did arrive safely though the Piki-Piki ride to the hostel was pretty scary (and fun) too. They had a bar that had about the best view possible, right up on the banks of the Nile.
The rafting itself was fun and only once was it scary for me (on the first time we flipped when I couldn't get enough breath between rapids). Although one of the others in particular was a little more scared, we all had a blast. They flipped us a lot but we wanted that - the water was beautiful and that was half the fun.
The other raft that went out that day was full of American army guys who got flipped at the worst part early on and didn't end up enjoying it much at all. A couple of them were scared to death and even claimed they'd rather be back in Afghanistan or Iraq than out there again.
The worst part about it was that although I slathered on the sun cream, I got very burned, at least on my legs where I hadn't already built up a tan. The cream washed off and after 6 hours in the sun (it rained lightly briefly but was mostly clear) I couldn't stand without pain. It went away in a day or two thankfully.
We left at a reasonable hour and took a very comfortable matatu to Malaba, on the border of Kenya and Uganda. We crossed the border on foot and I found it to be everything that Hollywood might make out a border crossing in the third world to be. We crossed a bridge and although there wasn't much security you got the feeling that there was much more that you couldn't see, and it was in a depression that seemed to magnify the heat of the day.
Uganda was immediately different; the people looked different; we couldn't tell if they spoke the same language (which they do and they don't); and the currency was worth way less but the prices were much higher. The matatus were the same but somehow different. We all agreed that they were much less pleasant but we couldn't say why because they were just as full, dirty, hot, sweaty, stinky, and uncomfortable. I guess it came down to driving. The roads were in better condition but the drivers were not. We passed a couple of bodies that had been knocked from Piki-Pikis and we even got hit (very lightly). We were all stopped for road works and our driver tried to budge ahead and then merge. Apparently the guy behind wasn't happy and decided not to stop (or was too busy blocking everyone else). The weirdest thing was our driver ended up having to pay the other guy, even though he was in front and he had the damage to his car (just a crumpled tail-light).
Anyway, we did arrive safely though the Piki-Piki ride to the hostel was pretty scary (and fun) too. They had a bar that had about the best view possible, right up on the banks of the Nile.
The rafting itself was fun and only once was it scary for me (on the first time we flipped when I couldn't get enough breath between rapids). Although one of the others in particular was a little more scared, we all had a blast. They flipped us a lot but we wanted that - the water was beautiful and that was half the fun.
The other raft that went out that day was full of American army guys who got flipped at the worst part early on and didn't end up enjoying it much at all. A couple of them were scared to death and even claimed they'd rather be back in Afghanistan or Iraq than out there again.
The worst part about it was that although I slathered on the sun cream, I got very burned, at least on my legs where I hadn't already built up a tan. The cream washed off and after 6 hours in the sun (it rained lightly briefly but was mostly clear) I couldn't stand without pain. It went away in a day or two thankfully.
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